Day 18: Makaibari

Day 18: Makaibari

Today we toured the Makaibari Tea Factory and the farms! We began with the factory, where they explained the process of picking, drying, fermenting, then packaging the leaves. Some brief notes on it:

-first tea factory in India

-green tea is not fermented, black tea is

-black tea fermented for two hours

-only tea estate in the world that is permaculture

-only tea estate certified Demeter (a very high European organic rating)

After the factory tour, we met Rajah Banerjee, "The King of Tea." He had just finished packaging a box of tea for Obama when he came down to greet us (Obama will be in Delhi on the 26th for India's constitution day!). He is quite the character, constantly affirming his own social status and power, but he is also an entertaining orator. He talked to us about 'the holy cow' for awhile (it wasn't making much sense), then we got to taste test some of their teas! It was pretty cool getting to see the three parts of tea and try their most special blend--silver tips. Silver tips broke a world record at auction, making it arguably the most desired tea. It is only harvested a few times a year and under a full moon. 

We went back to our homestays for lunch, then headed back out to take a tour of the farms themselves. The Makaibari tea farm looks nothing like you'd expect. To start, I didn't know what a tea bush looked like beforehand. It wasn't on the plains or even rolling hills; some of the bushes were growing on rather steep inclines on the sides of the mountain. The tea bushes were interspersed with trees at points, and divided by jungle on the ridges. It was late afternoon when we had set out, and everything looked "magical" (to use the Rajah's favorite word). 

Dinner was amazing. Back at the homestay, we were served the veg momos to rule all veg momos (a slight exaggeration, but they really tasted that good!). I was so infatuated, I easily are the same amount I would've pre-sickness. Our room had a few chocolates to top off a meal that had lifted our spirits even higher. 

Post-dinner we went to Banerjee's homestead. He tooted his horn a few more times, but he also talked about how important permaculture is to him, why they went organic, and the systems he has set up to directly empower women*. All of which I respect. He also served these delectable crackers with cucumber, tomato, and cheese. I was so happy to be eating tomatoes again. Not being able to eat most fruits or uncooked vegetables has left me craving them more than ever before. 

That was it for the day! The night was quieter than the night before (thank goodness) and it seemed that the morning came all too soon.

*Rajah, it should be noted, is the fourth generation to run this farm. He had seen how hard women worked there, only to be devalued once they returned home. So he decided that all profits from homestays went to the woman of the house--not the man. He also created a social program that solely women control. He donates double whatever they make that year and leaves the decision making entirely in their hands. As is found in most places around the world, projects that local women control are far more likely to succeed, and oftentimes education is the major benefactor, elevating the community as a whole. Even if he was egotistical, it was incredibly unique and smart for him to create that type of system.